Available finishes
Several finish options are available to you. There are pros and cons to each system. Consideration should be given in particular to outdoor locations and humid indoor locations such as the bathroom. Here are a few ideas...
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NO FINISH
Yes, no finish at all...none...is an option. If you prefer to finish it yourself, then this is the way to go. Or, perhaps you like the look of bare steel. I have furnished items this way in the past when the setting was very rustic and industrial, at the customer's request. An obvious advantage is the cost will be less. Something to bear in mind however, is the item will eventually react to its environment and form a surface rust. The rust will vary according to how reactive the surface is and the location's humidity. "Cold rolled" steel is very susceptible to rust. "Hot rolled" steel is less so, especially where the mill scale is intact. The item can be sealed with a matte lacquer (or other sealer) to seal the surface and prevent rusting if desired. |
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ENAMEL
Enamel is readily available in many colors, levels of sheen, and even textures. Flat black is very traditional for metalwork, but sometimes an item needs to be glossy yellow for example to "pop" in its setting. The finish, when properly done, will be very uniform in appearance. This requires more attention to the surface for smoothness and cleanliness prior to painting. Also, a primer is advised under the color coat(s). Often, several color coats are applied for suitable thickness. If a lot of prep is required, this adds to expense. Another downside to enamel is damage---if the item becomes scratched for example, it can be difficult to match the paint if a repair is made---often the entire item must be repainted for best outcome. Lastly, the item will need sufficient curing time before shipping is possible to lessen the chances of damaging the finish during transit. |
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ARTIFICIAL ANTIQUE
This is a process where the metal is rapidly "aged" to have the appearance of having been exposed to the elements for many years. In other words, "rustic." In this process, the metal is first cleaned, then etched with acid to remove mill scale and activate the surface for the oxidizer. Next, an oxidizer is applied, sometimes in the form of a salty solution to cause the metal to rapidly rust. Often this must be repeated a number of times to achieve the desired results. The piece is then well rinsed and a sealer must be applied to halt the rusting process. Lacquer can be used, however I have been using an oil based conditioner/sealer. The oil based method requires several days to cure, but has much better performance in this application over lacquer. |
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BRUSHED STEEL
The candle holders shown here are bare steel that has been brushed to yield an appearance similar to brushed nickel which is common to many homes. It is very modern in appearance while retaining the hand made, forged, artisan metalwork attributes of the item. It is not uniform as a plated nickel finish would be, rather it varies somewhat over the piece. Some mill scale can be left behind to have shades varying from silver to dark grey. However, any area that is worked, by forming or the application of heat, will tend to lose the mill scale from its surface. It must be sealed soon after brushing or flash rust will form. Typically a lacquer is applied to seal the surface. |
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BAKED OIL
This is a very traditional finish for metalwork. Typically, linseed oil is used by applying it to the piece and then baking. Linseed is commonly used in woodwork as well, and is one of the few drying oil. However, when it is baked it causes the oil to polymerize (i.e. the molecules link together) and carbonize. The finish is primarily black due to the carbon content but also has brown to copper hues which vary over the piece and show up in certain lighting or when seen from different angles. The results in an interesting and beautiful finish that is also timeless and fairly durable. This can be used outdoors, though it may be necessary to seal or otherwise protect (e.g. wax). |